Since it first appeared around 1978 (not stated in my '92 reprint) this book has become almost obligatory reading for anyone desirous of a quicker Mini, preceding Vizard's more comprehensive 'Tuning BL's A-series engine', which itself has become dubbed 'the bible' for the go-fast(er) Mini fraternity. Softbound, printed on reasonable quality paper, the book is a 19 chapter step-by-step, profusely illustrated compendium of information on the means of achieving better performance for your Mini. The book is directed to the UK market, and comments on ready availability of parts for most models covered in the book are not reliable elsewhere.
- Introductory sections:
- 'How to MODIFY your MINI' begins with Credits, in which Vizard's sources, primarily engine tuning specialists, are acknowledged, with a page 'About the Author' by an engineering colleague, Peter Davney, providing a brief history of the authors' lifetime commitment to making cars go faster. 'Mini in Brief' is another page on the historical background to the Mini, and why the transverse-engine, front wheel drive and four-wheel independent suspension were so revolutionary in 1959. 'High Performance - what do you need to get it?' explains in readable and understandable terms why increasing the horsepower, reducing the weight and lowering the drag will permit higher speeds. The various means of increasing horsepower are summarized, and terms defined. 'Technical History' is a chronology in 2 pp from 1959-1975 summarizing changeover points for models, and their improvements. Chassis numbers of contemporary models are provided. Finally, a single page flow diagram facilitates identification of transverse Mini engines...this is useful in wreckers/scrappies/breakers yards...easy to use..simple choice of yes or no starting off with the cylinder head, rocker cover on.
- Ch. 1: Engines for the Mini
- A 2 page spread with chart lists the various transverse engines found in Minis (848-1275 cc), their relative cost, parts availability, power, rpm and competition potentials, and capacity potentials compared to other Mini engines. Useful basic information for newcomers to Mini tuning.
- Ch. 2: Bolt-on performance
- The simplest way to add HP with bolt-on goodies, starting with a modified head, which can add 30% more HP if correctly modified (to the small bore engines - 10-15% for the big bore engines). Why you can't fit some heads also is explained. This chapter also summarizes carburetion, inlet and exhaust manifolds, and exhaust system modifications to increase HP. Cam modifications and high-lift rockers are mentioned in passing here. This is an introductory section only, and detailed more fully in later chapters.
- Now the detailed sections:
- Ch. 3: Carburetion (31 pp.)
- A thorough explanation of what the carburetor does, the significance of the fuel/air ratio, and various definitions occupy the first couple of pages, accompanied by a power curve showing that maximum power comes with a slightly rich mix. Expected HP outputs from a range of carbs: SU, Stromberg, Fish, Weber and Dellorto in this instance, are tabulated....twin 1 3/4 SU's are in front with 80 HP. A double page spread of optimum needles and springs for particular engine modifications follows, and several pages of jet combinations for particular engine mods. Features of carbs from the 1 1/4" SU to split Webers, and their optimum uses, are described. Detailed sections follow on ram pipes and air filters, carburetion calibration and set-up of a 28/36 Weber, ditto for a Fish, twin-choke Dellorto or Weber, the mechanics of split Webers or Dellortos, which optimizes even fuel flow into each cylinder, and setting up single and twin SU's. Clear descriptions are accompanied by many detail photographs demonstrating sequential assembly/adjustment. This chapter improved my understanding of carburetion, yet Vizard stresses that even when all these instructions are followed, the carb settings are only ball-park figures, and hours of tinkering, or better still, a dyno setup, will still be required.
- Ch. 4: Heads - Standard and Modified (20 pp.)
- Vizard defines large bore engines as those using the Cooper S 2.78" bore size (970, 1071 and all 1275 engines). The others are small bore engines. A chart identifies head casting numbers, valve sizes and chamber volumes for both bore sizes. The hottest head for small bore engines is the 998 Cooper/MG 1100 12G295; for the big bore, the 12G940 head casting. Differences between the various heads are described, head swaps which are effective noted, and head modifications described in detail - reshaping the chambers, shaving the head to increase the compression ratio (CR) (with appropriate cautions!), contouring the inlet and exhaust ports, all accompanied by detailed drawings showing desired chamber profiles, with grind areas indicated. Modifications required to install a big valve head on a small bore block include cutting away the block to clear the exhaust valves. Vizard also notes the use of 8-port heads for competition, however for a whole lot of extra work and money, they will put out only 7 HP more....i.e. 135 HP from 1300 cc vs. 128 HP from a flying 5-porter. The last 5 pp. of this chapter detail valve specifications for each engine, and what changing valves and modifying valve seats achieves in terms of air flow. Inlet and exhaust valves for all heads are tabulated, their composition given, and comparative flow diagrams for a combination of heads/valves shown. The final table is modified head flow chart over ten valve lift heights. The section also covers modification of the valves to improve flow characteristics. Informative chapter, clearly identifying why dropping 1100 valves into an 850 head, among other mods, isn't a good idea. This edition clearly pre the advent of twin-cam heads for the A-series (e.g. KAD, JKD) - these are not mentioned.
- Ch. 5: Camshafts and valve train (13 pp.)
- Concentrates on factory camshafts, how to identify them, and how to select the right one for the job. 2 pp. chart the respective cam specifications. Pin-drive and spider-drive are discriminated (i.e. how the cam drives the oil pump), and the method of installing the later spider drive described. Each cam, from road to full-race, is detailed. Also explained in detail are cam followers, rockers, rockers pillars/stands and rocker shafts, springs, spring caps and camshaft drives. Requirements for a performance engine are detailed.
- Ch. 6: Blocks, cranks, rods and pistons (16 pp.)
- Displacement of all engines plus 20, 40 and 60 thou. overbore is listed, also bored and stroked 1275's out to 1596 cc. Possible mods to each engine are detailed, beginning at the choice of block, working through cranks and rods, stroking, pistons, relative costs for small- and big-bore engines. The chapter concludes with big capacity - '1600 cc and more' in which a short-stroked Ford engine swap onto a Mini gearbox is described. This engine will produce up to 30 hp more than the A series. Brief mention is made of oil pickup mods required, the problems of cross-flow heads under a Mini bonnet, and similarly, the problem of carburetion on a non-crossflow Ford engine, which requires surgery on the MIni firewall. Clearly reasoned chapter, again with 'don'ts' as well as 'do's'.
- Ch. 7: Exhaust systems (4 pp.)
- Straighforward short section on exhaust function and what the silencer costs in terms of hp. A long centre branch (LCB) is to be the most popular compromise, however Vizard points out that the LCB is not ideal with longer duration cams than 649 full-race. Various combinations of exhaust for these cams are described.
- Ch. 8: Ignition and ancillaries (5 pp.)
- Describes the need for precise timing in the Mini engine, the effects of a worn distributor, whys and wherefores of vacuum advance (economy with it for road cars, but an S distributor without it for competition, where economy isn't a factor). Also dissected are points, condensor, coil, leads and plugs, and finally, electronic ignition, considered a must for a racing unit. 'Ancillaries' covers only fitting a larger pulley to slow the dynamo (generator), and mentions briefly fitting an alternator. Less detailed than other chapters, but nevertheless, provides reasoned explanations why not to do some modifications.
- Ch. 9: Cooling (3.5 pp.)
- Describes the relevant hardware to achieve the optimum running temperatures of 70 oC for competition, 90 oC for road work: fan (2-blade favoured), thermostat (take out and fit a blanking plate in competition engines), water pump (alloy preferred), radiator (various fixes suggested, from an auxiliary radiator from the heater outlets to a front mounted Triumph or Allegro radiator). Finally, fitment of an expansion tank is recommended for any Mini which shows signs of being thermally temperamental.
- Ch. 10: Oils and lubrication (2 pp.)
- Some sensible advice on oils, the need for a central oil pickup pipe for competition use, the requirements for an oil cooler, how to prime an engine and start an engine for the first time. An engine should never be started until there is oil pressure showing on the starter motor alone.
- Ch. 11: Dyno tuning (3 pp.)
- The rolling-road dynamometer measures hp at the driving wheels. 'Engine settings can be changed to see whether or not more hp is produced'. In summary 'one hour on a rolling road is worth weeks of testing up and down the road...it's the only way you'll be able to make the most of your engine'.
- Ch. 12: Economy (6 pp.)
- Vizard details what is required to achieve the best economy possible... concluding with economy instrumentation... vacuum gauge in the first instance, which tells you whether you've got your foot down too much, and the ultimate, an in-line fuel-consumption gauge, which reads out directly mpg at any instant, and also allows you to determine the state of tune of the engine.
- Ch. 13: Flywheel and clutches (9 pp.)
- The various flywheels available on Minis are described, and the means of lightening them, lightening back plates, the 'right' clutch plate to use, replacing helical primary and idler gears with straight cut. All these accompanied by detailed photographs and descriptions.
- Ch. 14: Gearboxes and transmissions (17 pp.)
- Problems of early Mini gearboxes are described, successive modifications therein, and how to identify which casting. How to fit the Cooper extension rod change to long-lever (pudding stirrer) 850 Minis is detailed. 3- and 4- synchros are covered, as are the differences between helical and straight cut gears, how to quieten straight cut gears, the whys and wherefores of standard and limited slip diffs. The chapter concludes with a summary of which engine will fit which gearbox casing, plus warnings on using the correct engine mounting block and radiator bracket. Informative, clearly explained.
- Ch. 15: Suspension (13 pp.)
- Everything you need to know about standard wet- and dry-suspension, positive and negative camber, adjustable suspension (in this case HI-LO's), what changes in the car's ride height do to the steering geometry and how to compensate, rear beam axle (doing away withe the subframe and saving 50 lbs), modifications to hydrolastic, and so on....similarly detailed to earlier chapters, with relevant photographs and sketches.
- Ch. 16: Off-road preparation (5 pp.)
- Value for the rally driver - where to reinforce your Min so it doesn't fold up... begin at brazing the seams, then reinforce the shock absorber mounts, the subframe mounts front and back, weld a box section backbone over the centre tunnel and across the existing cross brace, reinforce the bumpstops, add gussets to the subframe corners, battery box skids and other underbody plating, sumpguard, bracing twin tanks... enlightening read!
- Ch. 17: Brakes and steering (6 pp.)
- Describes the various braking systems found on Minis, identifying their components. The differences between Mk 1 and Mk 2 steering racks which necessitate the use of the appropriate steering arms are detailed. Upgrading drums to discs and what will and won't go, also master cylinder requirements, front to rear brake balance and pressure limiting valves, are covered. The need for a servo or not is discussed. The chapter concludes with trackrod adjustments which may be necessary in a drastically lowered car. Another informative, well illustrated chapter.
- Ch. 18: Wheels and tires (11 pp.)
- A bit dated in that the 'latest thing' extolled is the Dunlop DeNovo 'run flat' Mini wheel (!). Development of Mini wheels and tyres is summarised, from the original 10" to 12" and later 13" rims, made possible by improvements in tyre technology. Wheel widths in relation to offset, spacers and steering geometry is explained clearly. Vizard discusses the use of spacers without considering that they may be illegal in some places his book is read....Australia certainly. Much of this chapter is directed towards tyre requirements for race and rally use. Again, I found this chapter informative.
- Ch. 19: Bodywork and interior (6 pp.)
- Contains a brief review of Clubman vs. bullnose Mini front, fibreglass front, roll cages and safety equipment, bulkhead modifications for bigger carbs, modifying wheel arches, swapping Mk2 grille and rear lights into a Mk 1 shell, de-seaming, fibreglassing, use of bodyfiller, and spray-painting. Chapter concludes with a page on interior mods - instrumentation, seating, steering wheel. A review chapter only, but covers the basics.
- Suppliers:
- a single page lists ca. 55 parts suppliers/engine builders in the UK, USA and Canada.
Verdict: Justifiably referred to as the 'old testament' by the cognoscenti, and almost compulsory reading if you plan to modify your Mini, the engine in particular. Comprehensive, lucidly explained pros and cons of most common modifications of the A series engine, copiously illustrated. A good start for the neophyte Mini modifier before jumping into the complexities of the later and more detailed ('new testament'!) Vizard volume, 'How to tune BL's A series engine'. My copy pre-dates development of the twin-cam head for the A series by, for example, KAD and JKD.
Review by not-especially-technical Russ Shiel, Albury, Australia
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Copyright © 1997, Russ Shiel - validated (3.2s)